Pillow Cover – Instructions

Pillow Cover – Instructions

1.       Materials requirements

• Purchase pillow (or stuff, if you choose)
• Fabric to fit your pillow
•  Feet for your machine: 

o   Serger – cording foot if your cording is not too large.  Serging will make the nicest finished edge inside.

o   If you do not have a serger, or if the cording is too large for your serger foot, use the zipper foot on your sewing machine. 

Note:  If the cording is too big for the serger, you can serge the raw edges after the pillow cover is assembled.  If you do not have a serger, you can use a zig-zag or use another good “holding” stitch down the raw edge after you have the pillow cover assembled.  If you do this extra step, you should not have to worry about repairing the seam of your pillow.

2.            Cover basics

·         Measure your pillow.  Depending on the thickness of the pillow cover fabric, you may need to add a little bit to the side for your cover, but the finished cover is ideally a smidgeon smaller than the pillow itself, so it fills it out nicely.

·         Cut a solid front for the cover. 

·         For the back, cut two pieces about 4-inches wider than half of the front cover.

·         Press a fold in place so that the two back pieces overlap at least 2-inches.

·         Serge along the both raw edges that will form the “flap”.   (Photo taken later to show where you serge the raw edge of the flaps.)

·         Place the two back pieces together over the front; adjust the fold.  Mark where Velcro should go to close the cover when it is on the pillow. 

·         Sew the Velcro strips in place.

3.            Make cording (or used purchased cording)

·         To make cording, cut bias strips about 1-1/2-inches wide (or larger for fatter cording). 

·         To join bias strips, place one strip at a 90-degree angle to the other strip, right sides together.  Stitch diagonally across the strips.  I find it works best to begin the stitching a tad to the right of the actual meeting place of the strips, beginning one stitch above the edge of the bottom strip for a perfect “join”.

   

·         Use cording foot on serger (or zipper foot on sewing machine) to sew as closely as possible to the cording.

4.            Appling the Cording

·         To begin applying the cording to the pillow cover front, pull a little cording out of the cording casing at the beginning of the strip.

·         Beginning in the middle of one side, let the empty cording casing hang over the edge.  Begin serging down that side, applying the strip to the front cover.

·         Serge to where you can see where your corner will turn.  Clip the cording there and turn cording at a right angle towards where you will sew the next side.  Continue serging in a straight line off the edge.  Trim threads.

·         Place the cording down the next side.  Serge, clipping at the next corner.  Serge in a straight line.

·         Repeat for each side until you come to the last side. ·         On the last side, a couple of inches before you get to the place you began, stop. 

·         Cut a “tail” about 2-inches longer than needed to “meet” the cording; pull the cording casing back and clip out the cording. 

·         Flatten the casing (your cordings should just about meet in the middle) and serge it down, angling the empty “tail” away from the pillow cover. 

·         Serge in a straight line over the place where the beginning and ending of the cording meet.

5.            Applying the cover back

·         With the Velcro strip “closed”, lay the pillow cover back on the front (right sides together).

·         Serge down each side in a straight line, serging off the corners, trip threads, and repeat until complete.

(And if you are not in class, you could consider making things a tad straighter! :-)

6.            Turn the pillow cover inside out.

back view (I did not actually put velcro on this "sample" pillow cover.)

front view - hermit crabs...

7.            Put pillow inside the cover.

[I no longer hate making pillow covers!]

Jacket - Class Project

I really don't like the brand of patterns they always use in my classes.  I know now that I am not going to, but I'm trying to adapt things so they will come out closer to what I might want to wear.  This one came out too wide, and eventually I will probably take it in on the sides. It is a simple hooded cotton knit jacket, not designed for a zipper, but I added one because I don't like jackets that don't "close".  I just got the longest one I could and let it fall where it will at the top, which is a little short, but works better with a hood that is all one with the front of the jacket.  (I prefer separate, attached, hoods--better shaping achieved.) Back view Close-up of pockets Zipper detail (I was tickled to find this complimentary zipper to go with my fabric.) Front view, finished jacket It's quite comfortable and pretty much does the "job" but it's too wide, and I know what I actually wanted.  That's why I made this fabric first, and I'm right--it's not really what I want.  (I'd prefer the separate hood design, to be sewn on; also I'd prefer that it actually fit instead of hanging like a bag.)  I'll get lots of wear out of it on cool summer evenings though, and I've already worn it to class and on Easter Sunday during the egg hunt. Mission accomplished. [Let me just add, I STILL hate cover stitching on my serger.  Maybe I always will...]

Beach Clothes

So the Christmas presents are finished and it's time to go on vacation.

In a fit of idiocy on the day before we left for Hawaii, I decided to see if I could finish the sun hat I had cut early.  (I copied a hat I had to return because it was too small.)

I hated the one we made in class because it felt like a ton of bricks on my head and the fit was not perfect either.  I was determined to make a light weight, packable, sun hat.  I had this fabric left from something I made for my mother-in-law back in the 1970's. 

It turned out really well.  I used very light weight, very stiff, fusible-on-both sides stuff for the the brim.  Attaching it to the band was really tricky!  

The whole crown flattens down (it is unlined for coolness), I roll the brim slightly at the edges to close my suitcase, and wow!   I have a travelling sun hat!

After that 4-hour bit of insanity, I decided to try to copy my friend's dress from Mexico.  I just used what I had in the house, and I can't get the proper knitted fabric for the yoke like the original had.  That makes all the difference in how it hangs, but it turned out pretty well.

Miles and miles of ribbon and lace...

It's a comfy flowing cover-up sort of thing, although her's could be worn as a dress.  I just don't think I would do that with this one, unless maybe it was a luau...  Great for a family dinner by the pool though!

Reversible Pillow "Cuff" - Class Project turns Christmas Present

This seemed like a good idea as one can reverse it with the seasons.

Cuff:  

Reversed:

Of course I needed to make a pillow cover then.

back side with velcro closure

Finished 

Mesh Bag for Sewing Supplies

As I have said, mesh bags are addictive! This time I needed a smaller one for my sewing supplies for classes.   This time I wanted an INSIDE pocket for my Kleenex pack. For each bag I measured my boxes and fit the bag to them. All the boxes in the bag Collapsed Wah-lah! This was fabric from a little two-piece outfit I made for my daughter back in the 1970's; I just love it!

Serger Scarf with Decorative Thread - Class Project

Our project for serger class one day was this "mesh" scarf we created with decorative thread and a watersoluble stabilizer.  

Close-up  (we were told to do the rolled hem around the edges, and I probably wouldn't try it again as it was not a success.

Basically you can create whatever length, width, or design you like.  It's perfect when you just need a splash of glitter and/or color to liven up an outfit.

Mesh Bag for Serger Supplies - Class Project

I have to say right up front:  these bags are ADDICTIVE!

I decided not to make the assigned size, which was just like a paper grocery bag.  I needed a bag to carry my boxes of accessories and supplies back and forth to class.  So I altered the placement of folds a little and created an perfect bag to do the job.  

I actually hate big bags, but this one has to be large.  It's much larger than it looks in this photo.

Box of serger feet in the bag

Lower band forms pockets on the outside.  (I don't happen to think I'd ever use OUTSIDE pockets, but it's attractive.)

I used fabric I had made my mother-in-law a dress from back in the 1970's.  (She'd be pleased!  And my girls like it.)

Pillowcases for Sweet Peas

We did a class combining applique and a no-seams-showing pillowcase.  I didn't really want a pillowcase, so I searched for something a princess would like and came up with this.

Applique detail

Back side, finished pillow case

Front side, finished

The next day, I knew I couldn't give a princess one without making one for her big brother as well.  I could only find bits and pieces that will probably eventually end up in his quilt.

Fabric close-up

Finshed pillow case (no applique)

I think he was possibly more excited than she was!

We were not supposed to stitch down that strip separating the two main fabrics, but I can't stand stuff wadding up in the dryer, so I top stitch.

Amy Butler Hat - Class Project

I knew this class project was doomed before it began, but I did it anyway because I wanted to learn how to do it.  

The pattern pieces make a very nice hat and the instructions work well.  I learned how to do a better job of attaching the brim.  HOWEVER, they wanted us to use Amy Butler fabric (heavy) and follow their recommendations for heavy duckcloth for the interlining (to make it strong).  I knew I would detest a heavy hat, and I do.  (After a year of stewing over it I put it in the fundraiser yard sale my daughter had to raise money for their pre-school.)

It was TERRIBLY heavy, and the silly thing is that one can do it just as effectively WITHOUT making it heavy.  (Please see the one I made in December 2010, which I love:  http://nanabs-sewing-fun.blogspot.com/2011/02/beach-clothes.html )

I won't go into any more detail because I do not like to wear the hat, and I don't believe anyone should issue instructions to make such a wretched item. 

Inside (my lining was not at all tidy, but by then I didn't care; it was all too wretched)

Lovely, but HEAVY

It actually looked nice on, because it is a good design.  It looked even better on my little granddaughter.  It's STILL heavy.

(from sometime in summer of 2010)

Sewing Club - Reusable Sandwich and Snack Bags - Class Project

These are the new "green" way to transport one's sandwich and snacks.

The lining is polyurethane coated fabric and the closure is velcro.

I'm not going into the details of how to make these. There are a number of variations on the web, and instructions on how to make them as well. This is a link to this particular style, but I haven't "gone over" the instructions to see how they differ from what I did. We did not end up with the "raw seam" issue, because we sewed it almost up, turned to the outside, then stitched across the 3-in. opening.

Also, we sewed a "triangle" on both sides at the bottom to create a roomy bag.

http://wewilsons.blogspot.com/2009/02/reusable-snack-bag-tutorial.html

Serger Club - Darted Tee Shirt - Class Project

Well, I really am NOT excited to put this one up, but in the interest of honesty and completeness here goes...

We had to make a tee shirt for class, which I didn't want to do right now for myself. And we had to select one of four patterns. They only had one pattern in stock and it was only 4 days before class. We were supposed to cut out our garment before class, so I had to get that one. Let me say this, I am not now, nor have I ever been at any weight shaped like most Vogue patterns. So I wasn't happy right up front.

To keep our classes free, we are supposed to buy all of our supplies at the store, but I really do NOT wear the kinds of knits they had in stock--they were synthetics and I wear almost all cotton, except for dressy occasions. So I had to go to another store. Since I've been around a "while", let me just say, they don't SELL knits anywhere almost at all anymore--and yet most of what is in the retails stores is knit. Out of the measly selection I ended up with one with I might actually have liked if the pattern had been vertical and not horizontal. It is very light weight, almost all cotton, and does not have too much stretch--so that part was good.

Here is the finished tee shirt. I'm not sure it will look any better on than it does off, but I'll probably wear it. (I did remember to push it over to the left in the "frame" of the photo, so it hopefully will not be chopped off by Blogger.)

As I am not shaped like a Vogue pattern, and especially not like this Vogue pattern, I really had to "mess" with the pattern before cutting it out. In the first place, I have not sewn for myself in years, and I have never been whatever size it is that I am now. I had not measured myself either (all cardinal rules, but I knew I had to break some of those anyway). My experience is that if I select a pattern or garment to "fit" my current size, it will be WAY to huge in so many ways, as my "frame" is not designed for the amount of weight it is carrying. So I have to start with something smaller and add where needed

Before cutting, I measured myself, and I measured the pattern. It appeared to be WAY too small. So I added sufficient inches that it would at least go around me. I added a whole chunk from the shoulder seam to the hem, just at the end of the dart. I also cut the sleeve hole deeper (down the side seam further), and added to the circumference of the sleeve.

We had only our sergers in class, but there was a sewing machine provided where we could run a quick basting stitch to try things on. I spent more time in the restroom trying mine on than anyone else did, but without it I would have had an "unwearable garment".

First step: In the pattern directions, they had you making the darts way later in the process, which I think is ridiculous! Much better to make them when the pieces are still absolutely flat and not attached to anything else! (That is, unless you are worried about dart placement with your figure. I laid it beside myself and they were fine where I'd put them.) So first, make the darts.

In class I learned a new "flat sewing" trick. Stitch one shoulder, then apply the band around the neck before stitching the other shoulder. As the fabric is very light weight, this technique worked really well! So far, so good.

Then I learned another "flat sewing" trick. It is a "modified" sleeve insertion method. When working with certain fabrics and patterns, I have often inserted a sleeve with no pinning, before sewing the side seams. Vogue sleeves have long "caps" (the part at the top) though, so this one required pining all the way around. The trick is to sew from one set of the ^'s to the other set of the ^'s. (Or stated another way, sew from about 1-1/2 inch from the side seams on both sides of the sleeve; do not attach the last 1-1/2 inch on each side.) This allows you flexibility in adjusting the side width, and according to the lady who told us about it, your sleeves will not rip out in the armpit area. (I have personally never had a sleeve rip there, but she is even more heavy-set than I am, and she has had this issue).

It was a very good thing that I used this modified sleeve insertion technique, as the shoulders were WAY too wide, and the garment was WAY too big around. I took out an extra full seam width (5/8") twice in the shoulder width before getting it close to my size. This was my fault, because I added all that width and did not adjust for it in the shoulder seam placement. I have narrow shoulders, and it is always an issue.

Then I basted down the side seams--WAY TOO HUGE! I serged a one-inch+ larger seam down each side, and it is still wide, but I am leaving it that way for this garment.

[Part of the dfificulty in sizing this particular pattern is that it is designed for knits, and I added enough fabric for non-knits because I didn't want to end up with too little. I may have gotten closer to the mark if I had been sewing for myself any time in the last ten years, but I haven't. And I would rather have too much than too little. However, there comes a point when "too big" is not adaptable to a much smaller size--nothing is in the right place after you take very large seams too many times in the same garment.]

I then removed all the excess I had allowed for circumference prior to sewing the seam in the sleeve. I stitched the seam and inserted the remaining portion of the sleeve.

Then using a cover stitch, hem the sleeves and the bottom.

On my sewing machine at home, I stitched the seam allowance from the neck binding down to the bodice.

Black on black does not show up well, so there is no point in including photos of details.

It was not the most satisfactory project I have ever done, but it's an ok tee shirt, and definitely large enough for "puffy days". With the right fabric, cut to close to the right size, it could be a really nice tee shirt. It is unusual to find a darted one, and that is also a design element which can be very nice.

Sewing Club - Placemats - Class Project

I deleted this and added to it so I am re-posting with a bit more data. If I had known I was going to create this blog yesterday, I would have taken more pictures during the construction process, to explain it better.

[Sorry to "Mags"; I have added your comment to the new post.]

With my new machines I received 'Intro' classes, plus 3 years of one class per month for EACH machine.

This is my first sewing class project. I wasn't too excited about making these placemats, but after I found some inspiring fabric, it was fun!

For four placemats, select 4 high-contrast coordinating fabrics.

For the center (butterflies), 2 yards cotton fabric.

For each of the 3 fabrics used on the side panels, 1/2 yard cotton fabric.

Cut four (4) 14" x 16" pieces of the "center" fabric. (In mine, this is the black with red butterflies.) [Cut the backs to fit after the fleece is fused to back of tops of placemats.]

[I personally will not make quite such wide placemats in the future. You can only get maybe four of these on an ordinary sized table. Very pretty, but not so practical. In using the Double Diamonds they need to be this wide in order to see the pattern.]

Cut three coordinating fabrics for edge panels in 4" x 16" strips (8 each).

Pick the top two fabrics for the diamonds, and fuse together with Seam-a-Seam 2. (In this case, the black with flowers is fused to the red leaves pattern.)

Fold each fused strip down the middle. Press down the center for cutting the diamonds.

Using a 3.5" Double Diamond Ruler™ (details shown in post below), place the cutting edge on the FOLD of the fused strip!!!!

Using a rotary cutter, slit down the grooves--making SURE the folded side is at the edge of the cutting side of the ruler as shown above!

Do not run into the plastic at the ends; it may ruin your cutting blade in a hurry. (I have to confess, I ran into the end a few times.)

Do NOT cut all the way through to the cut side of the fused fabrics!!! (It would fall apart if you did that.)

After slitting, carefully unfold and press the strip open again.

Pick the side you want to show only a little bit--in this case I chose the black background with little flowers.

Fold the narrow pointed piece carefully to the matching "point" on the piece above.

On just the pointed end where it will meet the matching point, use fabric glue to hold it in place.

After all diamonds are folded and glued in place, steam press firmly.

Next lay the strip over your 3rd strip of coordinating fabric (for these the orange and yellow) making sure the "right" side is "up"!

Stitch down the center through each point of the diamonds as shown in this finished detail.

Then stitch all the way around the 3-layer side panel very close to the edges. (You don't want these stitches to show later.)

Stitch two side panels to each center piece (the butterflies) to form the "top" of the placemat.

Cut the fusible fleece to fit.

Press the fusible fleece in place. (Follow the directions for the fleece you purchased)

Cut the back side fabric (the butterflies) to fit each placemat.

Place the back and front with the "tops" facing each other.

Stitch all the way around, leaving a 5-in. gap on one side of the center piece (butterflies) so you can turn it inside out.

Turn; make sure your corners are fully turned; steam press firmly.

I blind-stitched the 5-in. opening before final stitching, but most people did not.

Top stitch all the way around about 3/16" of an inch from the edges (or whatever you think is attractive).

We used an iron-on medium-to-heavy fusible fleece liner, but I didn't think it would stick very well after multiple washing, so I reinforced it with some decorative stitching in the center.

The decorative stitching would look better if I had centered the stitching in the photo as it is on the placemat.

Personally I would be more comfortable with this design if I had used a very narrow quilt-type stitch around every single "raw edge". The raw edges of the two pieces of fabric are fused together, but I don't feel very confident that they will never fray. I am still discussing with myself whether to spend the hours doing edge stitching on all four placemats...

Possible variations are numerous, but I will list a few:

It looks very nice with almost solid batiks in the middle and prints in the side panels. One person did this, and in place of my black-with-flowers fabric used a pale solid--very nice

If you have two very "busy" fabrics beside each other for the center and the side panels, you may want to use a contrasting solid fabric "flange" between them. You could also use the same solid fabric where my black-with-flowers fabric is in the side panels. Cut a strip 1-in. wide and 16-in. long to create a 1/4-in. strip. (I did not need this as my red-leaves has high contrast with the black background of the butterflies.)

For a nice finished look, you could use piping in place of the "flange" and all the around the edges. It would be fiddly turning and flattening the corners.

Our teacher made one version with a fairly dark batik for the center fabric. She used her embroidery machine to made a lovely design in the very center of the placemate after it was complete. (I suspect she was also nailing down that fusible fleece.) The design was perhaps about 4-inches (almost square). It looked very nice, and I wished had her machine for that part.

One person in our class made the center portion much longer and created a table runner.

Double Diamond Ruler™ Package Information

I used the 3.5-in. ruler from this set on the placemats above. I will probably use them a few more times when I am inspired to do so.

I will also probably "nail down" the fused edges as I go next time. (There wasn't time to do so in class.)

The actual rulers

The 1.5-in. ruler would make some really fun stuff, too.